Dinner with Chinese neighborhood friends, and I was greeted with an unexpected joy: the sweetest, smoothest, tastiest homemade congee. A commonplace rice porridge dish, this one was flavored with conch, scallop, abalone, chicken, and memories of a home I don't have. It wrapped me like a hug (and I swear it expands in the stomach). I can't get this at a restaurant, and I can't make it this good myself.
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