Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.

For once, I had a decent night's sleep in anticipation of the road. Pete and I knew this day would come, but there were still tears. I was in high-anxiety mode for an on-time departure that was never going to happen, but I managed to depart only a couple hours later than I'd hoped. The truth is, you're never going to be ready to leave.


I passed the west side of town and Pacifica. Each locale conjured memories, like the visit to Devil's Teeth bakery with Pete, or more recently riding two-up back from Alice's after lunch with Toni. The turn off for The Sea Bowl slid by, destination for my last group ride where the Vespa SF riders presented me that awesome gift box. Half Moon Bay took me back to my first group ride here. It wasn't until Pigeon Point Lighthouse that I started breaking new ground.

My rougher emotions were soothed by the thrum of the road. I was out of my comfort zone again, and yet very much back in it. The scooter felt solid beneath me, maybe from additional weight of cold weather supplies I was carrying? It didn't matter, I was back to being...just me.

What a paradox, to feel most at home slightly beyond myself.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
New fuel bottles are GO.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Meeting rider extraordinair, Colleen, in Santa Cruz.

Colleen had contacted me earlier, so we made plans for a coffee break in Santa Cruz. Truly badass, she's a retired officer who teaches MSF courses now. She escorted me out of town, perched on her white BMW, parting the lanes and waving regally to cars that made space. I felt like royalty following in her wake.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Some people actually live up to the title 'superhero' if you ask me.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Senseless beauty.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
What is this, Middle Earth?
Also, working out new luggage arrangement.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Hark, Bixby Bridge and a whole lot of atmosphere.
Against the dark rocks, the pale blue-green crests have a color that reminds me of toothpaste.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
My late start meant riding into dusk.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Inauguration of my new tent, a refurbished Down Range Solo (yay, eBay).

Chinese New Year fell on the Western calendar date of January 19th. I spent the new year's eve on a free pull-off along a less-traveled road to a military base near Big Sur. It was my first night camping in months, I was testing a new resource (freecampsites.net), and I was setting up after nightfall – nothing like jumping in the deep end. In the darkness of the new moon, the Milky Way revealed itself, a bright haze stretching across a dazzling chorus of stars. My urban upbringing kept thinking I could hear the soft thunder of a passing subway train, but actually it was the crash and roar of the king tide; I was camped just around the bend from the ocean. I toasted my first day back on the road with a few swigs of Four Roses and thought of Pete, fellow whiskey fan. I thought of my family, and what they might be doing for Chinese New Year. I thought of friends, perhaps continuing their daily grind because for them it's just another day. It was only a quick turn off from the main road but not a soul was in sight.

I was also the breaking in of my new tent. With much buyer's anxiety, I had shipped Tim's borrowed tent home and purchased a refurbished Down Range Solo. Buying a solo tent made me think of that Death Cab For Cutie lyric, "You look so defeated lying there in your new twin sized bed." Actually, this tent goes up much more quickly than the old one, packs smaller and lighter (it lives on the new scooter front rack, thanks again Vespa SF), has double doors, and I really like how the ground tarp extends under the rainfly. I keep my gear on the little triangular footprints outside my sleeping space, and it stays dry without trekking mud in. There's already a noticeable decrease in cussing and spitting during setup and teardown.

A year ago today, I would never have guessed I'd be here alone, but I fell asleep happy.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
New Pelican topcase doubles as breakfast bar!

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Morning fog and cold licks my wrists where my gloves and jacket gap. Luggage is settling.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Other campers at similar pull offs.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Time to go exploring a bit!

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Found a rock.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Had to climb it.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Dramatic seafoam.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
I spotted a rabbit while hiking along.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Skies are clearing for the ride.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Elephant seals?!

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Those fuzzy rocks lining the beach are not rocks.
I love the sounds they make, like big blubbery farts.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Are they fighting or mating? Same difference?

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.

A few people have asked about what I do to keep my cooler cool. Usually, I freeze a couple small water bottles for spare water as well as ice, but what do I do after a couple nights without a freezer? Most gas stations have soda machines, and I'll ask for a large cup of ice. Sometimes they charge for the cup, but sometimes they share ice freely.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Lake Cachuma recreational area.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Stunning view of the lake from the campsite.

I'd always wondered why people enjoy camping. It's sites like these – bug-free, uncrowded, idyllic, just cool enough to make you appreciate the warmth of a hoody – that deliver any rational explanation.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
What did you do for the lunar new year?

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Goodies from Solvang, CA.

The night previous I had stopped by Solvang, that weird Disney-esque pseudo-Danish town in southern California. It was pointed out to my sister and I on a south-to-north car trip of the past, and I suppose a part of me wanted to relive those memories. It's not the same without my sister, but for good measure I picked up some pastries – she would have.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Boat launch in the morning, on Lake Cachuma.

The ride down the coast was beautiful in an unreal way. Some portions the air even smelled like orange blossoms. Sometimes, the stop-and-go of trying to document an experience with photographs ruins the pace, so I gave up and just rode.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
History, across from my morning coffee stop in Santa Barbara, CA.

Immersed in the ride down the Pacific Coast Highway, I felt utterly alive. Now that I was sitting still, I found myself in a bit of a discordant mood for such an easygoing, pleasant city. Everyone seems to agree that Santa Barbara is a beautiful place full of beautiful people, but it felt a bit like a movie set parody of itself – paved with Nordstroms and populated with extras strolling around happily barefoot and in shorty shorts. I suppose, this being the region that birthed the Hollywood movie industry, it makes sense if it feels facetious to someone who came of age in cold cities. Being surrounded by the promise of an easy life achieved the opposite effect on me as I rolled into town; I felt uneasy. On the heels of Pete's accident, I couldn't help pondering how we're only ever a hairsbreadth away from death or life-changing traumatic injury at any given point in time, and how dependent we are on the delusion of safety to function. Perhaps it's only by accepting the valleys that it's possible to experience the peaks. I texted Pete to ask if he remembered to feed the dogs.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Pete got me started on these frozen acai bowl things, maybe it will help.
The kids size is about right for me, while I got some drawing done.

For the next few days, Dave (DSM8) had reached out and offered me a place to stay and use of his garage. We wasted no time, right after dinner we made a visit to Bert's dealership. In the place of an old Super Walmart, it housed the most bikes I've ever seen indoors.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
It's ridiculous in here.

I sat on a few different models of interest. Dave and I probably talked bikes all night, hopefully not boring his fiance, Lin, too much at dinner. She's also a rider, but struggles with the same issue I do: short legs.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Angeles Crest ride out!

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Scoot was here.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Biker spot.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
The morning fog lifted, revealing more bikes.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Absolutely gorgeous ride!

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
California kills me.

I've passed through LA before, so I didn't have much on my schedule beyond rest and meeting a couple ADVers. It just so turned out that Pete had a lead on a 1980 BMW R65 for sale not far from me. Dave invited me to hop on the back of his bike to check it out. I've been pretty eager to throw my leg over an old airhead, and this one turned out to be super clean.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Bike in question.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Firing up other bikes in the garage for fun.

Soooo there might be an old BMW sitting in the Vespa SF garages soon, waiting for attention. Perhaps when Pete heals up, or next time I'm in town.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Back to this.

On our Angeles Crest ride, Dave noticed that the plastic of my Pelican was flexing and bouncing quite a bit. That night, his industrious nature set out to create a sturdier base for the case with some scrap aluminum.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Cutting the sheet to size. The back edge was folded down for rigidity, then it was bolted directly to the rear rack.
All but one of the pre-existing holes were used, but widened for bigger bolts.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
I was so tired I forgot to take a finished photo, but suffice to say it's working great!

The new base is much stiffer and more lightweight. Thanks so much, Dave, for your time, patience, garage, expertise, and undying enthusiasm!

The next day, Dave's friend, Sandy, came by to give me a tour of her custom converted Sprinter van. The best part: a built-in remote controlled winch to pull her motorcycle. I had starry eyes.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Non-descript exterior. Urban camouflage.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Tools hidden next to bathroom.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Drop down bed.

Although I'm slowly coming to peace with tent camping, I must admit I'm envious of those monstrous rolling homes that seem to dominate the campgrounds around here. My interest is mostly as a means to keep a mobile studio nearby while I wander by two wheels, because my as-yet-untested onboard workplace is pretty pared down. I would probably hate driving such a beast (and hate the gas mileage more), but I can entertain fantasies. It was great talking to Sandy and her girlfriend about living in her motorcycle-hauling sprinter-camper.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Hey, someone put this sign on a hill.

John (jdgretz) had reached out from ADV, and I was more happy to meet up with him for some local riding. If I've come to learn anything about LA, it's that knowing a local is the key to your experience of the sprawl. John is a native, and a charm.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Meeting mustachioed motorcyclist extraordinaire, John (jdgretz) at Griffith Park.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
(Snicker.)

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Stunning Monday ride for Norge and GTS to Malibu. I see why people love this area.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
We were here.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Scooter POV of the coast.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Snack stop. Past this, Rt 1 was washed out.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Wandering around Santa Monica.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Cuban dinner with LA Bikers!

It was excellent hanging out with John and the LA Bikers. I loved hearing stories about their own road trips, and their current garages. Also nice to be among people who don't immediately dismiss a 250cc bike as too small, heh.

Inspired by the Route 66 guidebook John picked up in Santa Monica, we made plans to ride along some of the historic road on my way to Las Vegas. John could follow me as far as Barstow, CA. Woohoo, a riding buddy!

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Catching up on some drawings at a cheesy Americana themed diner, while waiting for John to arrive.
Again with the kids meals.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Route 66 kitschiness!

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Lunch break, before John had to return home. It was fun sharing the road with you, John!

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Feeling historic.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Some quiet towns along the way. Reeeaal quiet.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Amboy Crater, an extinct cinder cone volcano.

I'd researched some BLM for camping, but picked a defunct Historic 66 rest stop that's known for boondocking for my overnight destination. However, Google Maps had worryingly grayed out the road. Based on the miles of sandy hills and low bridges that made up the landscape, my guess was that rainwater had washed out one of the bridges on this seldom traveled road.

Low and behold, I came to the road closure that confirmed my suspicions.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Whoops.

I knew, I knew my rest stop in time was only a few miles beyond the road closure sign, just past the summit of that range. Nobody was around. The sun was low and I didn't feel like driving the 15 or so miles back to the Amboy Crater land.

Yeah, I steered around the cones and kept going.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Remains of the Cadiz Summit rest area along historic route 66.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Found the rest stop! Only a few miles in.
The little plaque tells you about how difficult it is to maintain this portion of Route 66. Go figure.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Camped in the lee of the bushes.

I must admit, I was feeling pretty isolated and was glad to have (intermittent) cell signal. I texted a couple people my location, and to make sure I texted them in the morning to let them know I wasn't bitten by something poisonous or eaten by a coyote.

I was kidding of course... though the coyotes kept me up at night. I was woken by their howls, and precisely three cars. In the emptiness of the desert, I could hear them approaching for what seemed like minutes. They sounded like airplane jets, the noise steadily tearing apart the fabric of the atmosphere before fading away just as slowly in the other direction. One of those cars was actually a tractor, and in that place it still sounded like a missile.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Good morning, desert.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
At night, the moonlight was bright enough to see by. I could hear the electricity in the lines, too.

I didn't go all the way through to see what caused the road closure, though many of the sandy washaways would have been shallow enough for a more off-road capable vehicle. My overloaded beast has street tires though, and perhaps not quite enough gas should I need to turn around.

As was the case I backtracked, and my fuel light came on just as I rolled into a gas station I'd passed the day before. They charged me the desert rate, $4.99/gallon.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
For some reason, it's pleasing to drive alongside trains.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Found a historic crest.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
More 66 kitsch.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
The landscape is changing.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
The road is all mine.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Until Oatman, AZ.

Oatman, AZ is a historic mining town, but now big tour buses pass through. Wild mules road the streets, and you can feed them burro chow between shopping at any number of jackass-themed establishments (I'm not being a smartass, they really embrace the assery!). I tried petting a burro, but they must have sensed I had no tourist dime to spend and they went for the dude in shorts.


Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Burro doesn't have time for me.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Burro wants a burrito?

The road out of Oatman to Las Vegas is winding, narrow, and twisty. I wonder how the tour buses navigate them, but perhaps they don't go that far. It was a refreshing change for me, after long desert straightaways.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Viewpoint up a fun, twisty road.

Scooter Interloper in SoCal. Feb 18-25, 2015.
Lines of mailboxes.

In the next installment: Las Vegas, for the High Rollers Scooter Rally!

4 comments:

  1. What a great summary of the CA (mostly) part of your trip. I like the photos of the desert and isolated campgrounds.

    Thanks for sharing!

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  2. The fuel bottles make it look like your Vespa has a jetpack or is equipped with nitrous or some other Spy Hunter-like capability... Cool.

    It's a unique reading experience to first see your drawings of the adventures that you later cover in a report with photos: interpretation followed by source and inspiration.

    ReplyDelete
  3. I thoroughly enjoyed that Stephanie. I sometimes wonder how you'll ever be a able to return to a 'normal' way of life after this experience. I think you never will, because you have remarkable gifts that will allow you the incredible luxury of living life on your terms without being tied down to an employer's nine to five drudgery.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I wonder how I'll adjust back too. I don't think of this trip as an escape in the way many motorcycle trips are, but I'd go crazy trying to predict the future anyway.

      Delete