Monday, September 28, 2015

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.

baja1159-2

Where were we? Ah, right, safely and happily ensconced at Mauro's Posada in beautiful Bahia de Los Angeles. Which of course means I couldn't sit still.

At some point in the previous evenings conversation, someones mentioned, "Are you here to pet baby whales?"

"Wait – what? I am now!"

In a fantastic coincidence, I arrived just in time for the tail end (hee hee) of whale breeding season (April-March). Eco-tours in the towns adjacent to Scammon's Lagoon offered boat trips to see them up close, even pet the babies! Their natural predators, killer whales, wouldn't follow into the shallow waters, so grey whales raise their young there before venturing north along the coast. The first grey whales I saw were in Alaska, much further along their migration. Now I had a chance to interact with them as calves?!

I discussed with my hosts the possibility of riding to San Ignacio (because it's a cool old town), but the town of Guerrero Negro was closer and Mauro had a friend with Malarrimo Tours. He and Alessandro were taking the camper into town for errands and building supplies anyhow, so they offered me a ride in the camper!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
The sunrise over a most treacherous driveway. But I'm in the camper today!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Alessandro reads philosophy, naps, and makes conversation in the back.
When he first arrived in BLA, he met Mauro when locals asked, "You must know the other Italian in town?"

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Morning fog crawls through an otherwise dry landscape.

We were up early to try to make it for an 11am tour time, but I was getting the impression Baja time is much like scooter time, which sat fine with me. Based on the hour I was contenting myself to just poke around town with Alessandro and Mauro. However, we forgot there was a timezone change when we crossed into Baja California Sur. I totally arrived half an hour early, and because I was solo they had no trouble squeezing me onto a trip.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Buses pull up to an unassuming dock.

Much of the main drag of Guerrero Negro was devoted to whale tours. Most of my boat mates were of the older, vacationing type, for whom this was their second or third or fifth return trip. I paid my $40 and felt a bit foreign waiting for the bus in the clean resort environment, though I availed myself of their WC. The tour promised whales up close, but I didn't want to get my hopes up.

When we motored out to the lagoon though, they were everywhere!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Whale!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Two whales!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
I am totally petting a whale!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Thar she blows!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Rainbow is very appropriate for petting a baby whale.

A mother and her baby would come up to the boat, and then when they leave you look up to see spouts and flippers all around. The boat motors on until the next curious mother and baby, who swims right up. Repeat, lunch break, and then repeat for the next several hours!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
They're everywhere!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
It's hard to capture the scale.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Oh hai!

It's hard to be anything but utterly delighted when a mother whale nudges her baby up to the boat so that you can pet her/him. As soon as they draw near everybody reaches towards the whales, and smiles are the same in every language. They're curious, playful, and enormous. And they feel really unexpected...rubbery on the outside, but with a very obvious give and heave that can only come from life and feeling.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Mother and calf give you the side eye.

They're quite accustomed to humans, perhaps as tiny, easy-to-please playthings. Many times, as whales approach the boats, they'll turn sideways and just look you over a bit. As if to say, "Yeah... yeah this lot seem alright, I'll let you near me." Good call, since an adult is easily five times the size of the boat...

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Not a whale.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Back at shore.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Also, salt.

You pass these tall, pure white dunes on the way to the lagoon. Salt mining is the big industry here. Mitsubishi owns about half the town for salt drying and distribution, after buying it from a local in the 70s.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Hay there. Errands accomplished, time to head back.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Snack before heading back. I don't think I will ever hit the fish taco wall.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Slightly thicker breading here? So delicious.
The owner, upon hearing where I came from, gave me a sticker for their truck. It's on the side of my topcase now.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Ambling back to BLA. Coffee stop at one of Mauro's favorites.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Toyota and camper and Mauro.

The camper ride itself was magical. It was heavy and boxy, with a top speed of about 55mph. "It's a Ferrari," Mauro said, referring to its fuel thirstiness. He rolls the 'r' with his accent. "But I like going this speed. You don't need to go faster to enjoy." In his past, Mauro raced off road bikes.

The trip each way took about 4 hours when 'regular' cars would take just under 3, but it could have lasted forever. The sun turned the desert pink, purple, lavender... a million shades without names. Even the new poles delivering electricity that people complained ruined the natural beauty, they were lit up in a brilliant shade of coral. Shadows stretched out in violet. Shrubbery, hills, cactuses were all softly consumed – nothing was left untouched by the majesty of the sunset. We chugged along through it in quiet reverence, windows down, 45mph, on this whimsical behemoth stuck to a Toyota.

There were only a few other cars, and one military checkpoint. They cut the engine to talk and the camper had trouble starting up again, but everyone seemed content to wait. Mauro chatted away in Italian-accented Spanish.

I didn't bother to take photos, it would be impossible to capture.

I could get used to this pace.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Pizza and faces with hostel guests for dinner tonight!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
The view of the bay in the morning.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Patty gives me a tour of their garden.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Time to explore town!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Off in the distance is a lighthouse. Alessandro mentioned you could walk up to it, but perhaps didn't understand the mechanics of sand and small tires...

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Whoops.

Up till this point, daytime had been temperate and nights positively cool. Today, the day that I had to dig my scooter out of sand, temperatures suddenly soared. I sweated under the sun as I removed my gear, trying to shed some weight and free my bike.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Until next time, Bahia de los Angeles. So beautiful, so sandy.

It's weird, looking back at these photos I'm amazed at such natural beauty. At the time though, immersed in the landscape, my eyes were saturated. I knew that I'd found myself in a place of indescribable beauty, yet existing there was as natural as breathing. Of course the mountains in the bay looked that way, of course the air smells like blooming desert flowers. Every moment was a feast for the senses, to the point that it almost becomes plain.

How do you explain water to a fish? Does it spoil you for the rest of the world?

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Rest stop.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
I really must study Spanish again.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
I think it's beef.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Here we gooooo.

As I traveled through the peninsula, people warned me of a rough section I intended to cross. They're paving more of it every day (and in some people's opinions, harkening the beginning of the end of old Baja), but as of 2015 the turn off from Mex-1 to Mex-5 would be entirely sand and dirt for anywhere from 15-30 miles, depending on the account. I was not deterred, but I planned on spending longer in that section. Besides, I wanted to meet this Coco everyone was talking about!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
They also said the scenery was the best.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Bumping along, I met another ADVer, Rick and his cool dog!
He stopped because he thought I was crazy.

When I stopped to chat with Rick in his camper, he asked, "Isn't that why you're here? To see remote Baja?"

Actually the only mental picture I had of Baja before arriving was cartoon cactuses. I suppose I'm here to see the remote part, or the less remote parts, or just to see what's here. At 5-8mph on washboard dirt and gravel, apparently.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Bumpitty bumpitty bumpitty...

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
It's pretty rough, but come to think of it I never fell off.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Woa.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Sometimes, a narrower sandy path with small hills ran parallel to the larger road, for off road bikes I imagine.
I tried it with scoot, but went back to running along a wheel well from the trucking road.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Arrived at Coco's Corner!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Lots of beer can, bottle, and hubcap deco.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Much cooler in the shade.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Hi, Coco!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Guestbook signed. Chats chatted.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
The infamous collection of underwear nailed to the ceiling.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Coco's reach is long. Farewell!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Crazy desert plants.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
The road actually gets rougher after Coco's...

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
My sad, shallow treads in the sand.

I took many breaks for water, photos, or chatting. My street tires slid in the sand crazily – I merely guided it roughly in the right direction. But still, the constant bumping around was wearing on me, and there was a point, sometime on the immeasurable desert clock, that I started to crack. I knew this machine wasn't meant for this, and I began to worry for my bike. Large rocks especially would compromise the suspension, sending shocks up the bike and into my bones. Sometimes the road was made entirely of them. It felt more and more like a plastic toy, bouncing along something far too big for it. I crawled along at a snail pace, unable to relax for a second, wincing for my bike, with no end in sight and no one around. Time distended, and in my worried state I found myself telling my bike, "Don't crap out on me now, we're going to Maine. You and I aren't done, we have more miles to go. We're going to make it to Maine, just you and me..." I knew in my heart the reassurance was more for myself, but it didn't stop me from getting a bit choked up.

In the end, it took me 4 hours to cross 25 miles of dirt, sand, gravel, rocks, and everything in between. I'm sure it would be a blast on another bike, but this was the one I had and it was the roughest road I have ever ridden with her. I cheered in my helmet when I found pavement again!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Pavement, woohoo!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Beautiful pause to use spare gas. The Pemex was closed and I didn't want to wait for morning.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
It's hard to capture the reflection of the island in the still water.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
I CAN GO SO FAST!!

One military checkpoint and a spare gas stop later, I was at my destination: Puertecitos.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Pitched a tent up high because I could.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Gooooood evening.

I don't recall who first mentioned this town over any of the other small towns I passed by, but Puertecitos' main draw is its natural sulfuric hot springs. The springs are right on the coast, so at high tide seawater mixes with the hot spring water to make for a fantastic soaking experience. Rocks have been arranged to form pools and small waterfalls. As the tide goes out, the higher pools become too hot so you migrate to lower pools, until you are at sea level.

After the grueling dirt ride, as soon as the tent was set up I bolted for the springs.

The coyotes howled, but couldn't keep me from sleep.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Good morning. How do I count myself so lucky.

When I pulled into Peurtocitos it was nearly dusk. The next day, I'd eaten through my onboard supplies and the baked goods selection at the convenience store. I decided to ride to one of the restaurants I'd passed up the street, about 15 miles. The road is so new and perfect and empty, I must have been doing 70mph when I passed a familiar group of motorcyclists at a scenic pull off...

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
It's the ADVers from El Rosario! I pulled an illegal U-ey and caught up with them.

Baja 1159, Part 1. March 5 - 9, 2015.
They sent me this photo. Is that what I look like?!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Rock-shaped island in daytime. No reflection in the water.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
This section of the coast, in addition to having beautiful new tarmac, is the most stunning coastline I've ever seen.
That's right, PCH, you're not the only pretty coastline.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Lunchtime.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Studio with a view.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
The best tacos I have ever had. I have dreams of these tacos.
The owner practiced English with me, and says he fries up whatever he catches that day.

At lunch, another motorcyclist pulled in and joined me. He lived on a sailboat, but had picked up his bike from San Diego for a ride into Baja. Normally, he would do Mex-1 as far as he felt like and loop back, but he noticed that there was a loop from Mex-5. I looked at his bike, a Sportster with street tires, and told him I'd just come up that way. He didn't realize it wasn't paved. I didn't want to discourage him, but I told him I took 4 hours to cross it, and suggested to drive to the intersection and look at it. There's a beautiful seaside campground near the military checkpoint if he decided not to ride it that day.

Woohoo, I actually have information to give for once!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Back at base.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Trail splits to rock pools and springs.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Hot springs time.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Playing with underwater camera.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Making friends. Mike invited me to dinner.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Hiya! They're in the camper by the playas in my photos.

In the timelessness of the beach, I visited the springs at every opportunity. I most liked it at night. Without the blinding sun, you could lay in the water looking up at the night sky. I counted shooting stars, and played with cold seawater with one hand while paddling hot spring water with the other. Often you could stir up bright green and gold phosphorescents. I could chat with other spring goers from around the world. Sometimes I'd catch a whiff of the sulfuric air, but it didn't bother me – I enjoyed it as part of the springs.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
What time is it? Oh right, paradise-o-clock.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Many of the homes here began as trailers, hauled out here in the 50s. Extensions are then added.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
The local convenience store.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
I did walk along the beach.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
The town. From afar, it looks like any other town along the coast.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
View from Mike and Kristin and Don and Mary's place.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
She offered a spare kayak!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Let's go look at boobies! There's a roost of blue-footed boobies around the cliffside.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Tamales and spaghetti with good company for dinner.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Strong black coffee and stories about local characters. Perhaps they will go to Prim's for a card game today.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Ain't happening, buddy.

Mike has a daughter roughly my age, and I think he might have missed her because he spoiled me with this fantastic breakfast. So simple, but after the desert the taste of butter was decadent. They bring all of their supplies, including drinking water, so I'm very grateful they shared some with me.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
The pros have a tide guide.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Like many things that are repurposed here, their porch is made of old telephone booth windows.
Also, friends showing up on four wheelers!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Propane refrigerators, because power gets shut off at 10pm.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Burping notes.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Touring homes!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Seriously.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
We must tell everyone it's awful here, don't visit. Keep it empty.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
One Mexican lady owns the entire town, inherited from her father.
Americans lease the land and build on it, usually expanding on the trailer that was hauled here decades ago.
I was told about 40-50 couples live part time in this little town, though may of the homes are shared between many people.
They say hi and plan community events by CB radio.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Sneaking a peek at other homes. Check out that spinal column.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
By the sounds of it, many of the homes began when someone just plopped down and started building.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Local post office and library.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Interesting collection. More repurposed.

The pace was the epitome of taking it as it comes. Friendship came easily in that kind of setting. Without phones or regular electricity, modern concerns melted away – even to the point of regular bathing (whatever, I went to the springs and hosed off with the rainwater basin). Is the Pemex gas station closed after 4? Just go tomorrow.

I could see losing myself in the beach, the sea, the springs, and only realize a week or more had gone by when I looked up to count the days. It wouldn't be a bad way to lose a week or three.

But was that what I was here to do? Difficult as it was to admit it, I wanted to keep going. I'm just an interloper, adopted for a few days by this quirky, cozy community. Plus, I did have an appointment I kind of wanted to keep in Arizona. I thanked everyone I met and left Puertocitos quietly, knowing that at the rate Baja was changing, even if I should return it would never be the same.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Lunch break in San Felipe. Blue waters and green palms.

San Felipe was beautiful, and covered over in race stuff. I think I was still longing for the smell of sulfur and rocky beaches – the fine sand and blue ocean was too perfect to my eyes, and the wandering salespeople pushing trinkets on me were annoying. I ordered some rolled tacos and a margarita, and paid with card. Things were changing.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Woa, green again!

Originally, I intended to go straight to Arizona, but Susanne had reached out so I swung back to Ensenada. It's moments like these I really value freedom of schedule. How often do I get to re-meet people on the road?

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Hello, Susanne!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
She's become much more comfortable traveling around Ensenada, and took me to some favorites she discovered.

I hadn't thought that I'd been roughing it alone in the desert for a week (probably something to do with being surrounded by stunning natural beauty), but when I arrived back in the hustle, bustle, bars, cars, noise, and lights of Ensenada... I was swirly eyed. Amenities were everywhere. Not only could I order a drink, I could order some hipster concoction that could have come off a Brooklyn menu. Susanne and I met up with her Spanish classmates at Hussong's, and proceeded to hit the town.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Meeting other Spanish students at Hussong's Cantina.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
The band's all here.

Last night, I was camped alone on a beach with no running water or electricity. Tonight, we found ourselves at an underground salsa dance club, and an outdoor plaza centered around a raised DJ stand, shooting mezcal. The contrast (and the booze) made my head spin.

But even with the alcohol (I thought that kills germs!) the place that culture shock really hit hard... was in the gut. The next day, I had the rumbles and was on the pot every half hour.

Yeeeuupp, it's moments like these I really value freedom of schedule. So much for my plans to head to Arizona for the next couple days. It was nice having a day to chill and catch up on blogging and drawings at the hostel though.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
I should really carry some anti-diarrhea stuff.
Susanne was kind enough to share her mysterious Swiss medicines. 

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
We've got a van to drive us around! Fancy!

Some hostel guests were pooling together to get a cheaper rate for a wine tour. There was no way I was turning that down, rumbles or not. I was beginning to feel better anyway.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Such luxury. We did not sit here.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Nor here. But we could look at it.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Winery number two.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Our cheap drunks vineyard group.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Cool eco-conscious winery.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Vineyard number three.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Sure, I'd love a taste.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Stopped counting. Just sharing a bottle and conversation.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
So glad to meet Susanne!

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Zzz.

I guess even in the city, you can find some of that Baja pace. Head buzzing again, it was a beautiful evening to chill in the hostel.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
My love affair with street food continues.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
No taco wall.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Farewell, Ensenada Backpacker.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Second weld on the muffler, after the first started to crack. $5 job this time.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Fingers crossed.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Foiled again.

I'm not a big Tecate fan, but since I planned on passing by Tecate anyway I figured I'd get a free beer at the brewery. When I first crossed through Tecate, I had the address wrong and while looping around the little streets trying to get my bearings with new approaches to traffic, stray dogs barked and chased me. I decided I did not need beer that badly (come to find out later, you can usually give these dogs a firm NO and they'll cool it).

This time around, armed with my newfound confidence in handling dogs and local city traffic, I arrived at the brewery... to discover it was closed for a national holiday.

At least there was a great taco shop next door.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Are you tired of taco close ups yet?

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Had to stop.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Getting scenic.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
This section of Mex-2 drops you from the plateau to the desert floor.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
I am totally okay with paying the $1 toll for this ride.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Got lost again. Roads do not match maps, but it sure is pretty.
Locals are pretty happy to point me to Los Algodones.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
From sleepy desert towns to pharmacies and optometrists and dentists.

Mexicali, where I originally intended to cross, was a strip mall. I followed suggestions to cross instead at Los Algodones, which is smaller and mostly a hotspot for Americans to get cheaper pharmaceuticals, glasses, and dental work. I bypassed about a mile of cars and the guards waved me in right after another motorcycle, no wait.

At the crossing, the US border official did the run down, How long have you been in Mexico/What are you carrying with you/Did you buy anything there, glasses or drugs. Then he had a look behind me, "You traveling alone?" I did my usual Yeeeup. He laughed, "You must like adventure. Welcome home."

And that was that. Smooth pavement, proper signage, and American English awaited.

Baja 1159, Part 2 - Now with baby whales! March 10 - 16, 2015.
Leaving the desert also means bugs again!

In retrospect, the time spent on the Baja peninsula was a short venture, only 12 days, and I didn't even ride down to Cabo. Somehow, every hour of those days were packed to the brim – there was no sense of lacking.

I heard someone say that once you get the Baja dust on you, it never comes off. I thought this was a laundry tip, but the meaning is that you'll never fully be able to shake the desire to return. "Go native," you might say. I'd certainly met those who had. And I did have dust on me – quite literally, my bike was a mess and I could have used cleaning advice – but even if I returned I expect to find a different Baja. In many ways, Baja is still a frontier, one of the few remaining and so close-by for Americans. Riding Baja has certainly changed me, in a part of Mexico that is changing rapidly itself. Perhaps I'm part of the plague, opening it up for more tourists with wifi and coffee needs. Those electricity lines are going up in an once unspoiled desert, convenience is coming for all. On the other hand, some people are very concerned with the search for "real" Baja. Why isn't change considered real? The mountains, ocean, desert, and people were plenty real to me, reality turned up to 11. Enough to fill my heart for a long time.

All I have to say is that riding Baja changed me.

Also, I'm doing shorter posts from now on, this took forever to put together!

3 comments:

  1. An amazing post Stephanie. Kudos for going the literary distance.

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  2. Awesome travels Super Hero. You gave me your card at Anna's round the world workshop. I'll check up on your blog. Baja is a pipe dream for me. Hopefully, one day. Ride on !!!

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